Carlin Creative Trend Bureau – What to remember about the Paris Fashion Week ... - PARIS PE18
today Oct 16, 2017
Paris has the secret of this particular emulation, between pharaonic shows of the globalized luxury houses and the new "alterground" labels, not forgetting those who really emerged and who are now looking towards the establishment side, ready to fight 'affirm as the next big thing, reliable and competitive.
So, what are the five trend points you absolutely have to know?
You are told everything:
This is probably the most spectacular Parisian trend of the season but also the most legitimate: the return of Couture volumes for a very drama silhouette that pay allegiance to the 80's, these golden years of the Paris haute couture. The swollen, the theatrical, the sculpted, the exaggerated please!
Anthony Vaccarello at Saint Laurent is the undisputed leader of this trend, while Isabel Marant focuses on shoulders and sleeves. Lemaire proposes a more sober and peaceful version of this topic.
If New-York had a crush on stripes, Paris has clearly made the choice of checks during this fashion week. In continuity of this winter’s appetite for Prince of Wales pattern, they are multiplied for spring 18: scottish style, window panes checks, maxi-gingham ...
Balenciaga puts everything on the tartan, while the Balmain house plays the bold black &white card. At Sonia Rykiel, large gingham brings a welcome wind of freshness.
It is the gimmick of the season, there is always one, this time it is the tied-wrapped effect around shoulders, whether it is a sweater, a big knot or a trompe-l'œil effect, integrated into the very design of the garment. It can therefore be a simple styling effect (because it's cool) or a more conceptual approach to construction.
Sacai makes it one of the major axes of her collection, while at Off-White, Virgil Abloh gives a more dressy dimension to his label, originally from the street-wear culture. For Balenciaga, Demna Gvasalia plays delightfully with the bourgeoise codes, transformed into fashion-mogul.
The fringes come back, no doubt about that, but be careful: nothing to see with the folk fringes of the previous seasons that haunt all the music festivals around the planet ...! The sharpest designers worked on this subject and brought them an elevated treatment.
For spring-summer 18, fringes will be chic, sleek and design. In New York, Raf Simons himself worked on them at Calvin Klein.
Yes, it is awful, but as Oscar Wilde said "fashion is a so intolerable form of ugliness that we must change it every six months". For you, dear readers, I overcome my personal aversion, and reveals to you the other fashion-trick of the season, let’s face it : the polo shirt; yes, the twisted, shifted, even transfigured polo shirt.
Fashion's a dirty job, but someone's got to do it.
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Paris Fashion Week PE18
By Thomas Zylberman, for Carlin Creative Trend Bureau.
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