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Valentino: is this as grand as it gets?
Classical, classical haute couture at Valentino, in a significant change of gears by the house’s couturier Pierpaolo Piccioli.
Godfrey Deeny 1 063 publications since 2017
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![]( "Valentino: is this as grand as it gets?")
Valentino: is this as grand as it gets? -
![]( "Gaultier Paris: Homage to Pierre Cardin")
Gaultier Paris: Homage to Pierre CardinGaultier Paris: Homage to Pierre Cardin
Pierre Cardin is the gift that keeps on giving. The world’s oldest couturier showed up front row for the latest haute collection of Gaultier Paris. Which his former assistant Jean-Paul...
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![]( "Balmain launches '44 François Premier' eveningwear capsule")
Balmain launches '44 François Premier' eveningwear capsuleBalmain launches '44 François Premier' eveningwear capsule
The house of Balmain has launched an eveningwear capsule during the Haute Couture Paris fashion week, dubbed 'The 44 François Premier collection' after the address of Pierre Balmain’s...
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![]( "Maison Margiela: Deconstructed Chinoiserie dominates")
Maison Margiela: Deconstructed Chinoiserie dominatesMaison Margiela: Deconstructed Chinoiserie dominates
Now that’s what we call a neighborly finale. The north Paris headquarters of Maison Margiela are located near one of the capital’s two Chinatowns, and the latest couture collection...
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![]( "Karl Lagerfeld on Hedi at Céline")
Karl Lagerfeld on Hedi at CélineKarl Lagerfeld on Hedi at Céline
As he greeted editors backstage after the Chanel haute couture show, what was Karl Lagerfeld wearing? But, of course it was a double breasted black tuxedo jacket by Hedi Slimane – the...
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![]( "Givenchy’s new night visions")
Givenchy’s new night visionsGivenchy’s new night visions
Sculptural and suavely grown-up, the haute couture debut of Clare Waight Keller for Givenchy on Tuesday night had a darkly romantic flourish, which seemed somehow very right for this...
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![]( "Chanel’s garden of earthly Couture delights")
Chanel’s garden of earthly Couture delightsChanel’s garden of earthly Couture delights
Staged in a classical French garden worthy of André Le Nôtre, the latest haute couture collection from Chanel was as airy and light as a daffodil blown away in a sudden gust of wind.
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![]( "Armani Privé: still dreaming")
Armani Privé: still dreamingArmani Privé: still dreaming
Giorgio Armani decided to dream this season, and the result was his most phantasmagorical haute couture show in many seasons.
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![]( "Ralph & Russo: Getting it right at couture and beyond")
Ralph & Russo: Getting it right at couture and beyondRalph & Russo: Getting it right at couture and beyond
Ralph & Russo seem to be doing everything right this year. On Monday, the London-based duo staged their most elegant collection to date in the Paris haute couture season.
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![]( "Back to their roots at Paris couture for Proenza Schouler")
Back to their roots at Paris couture for Proenza SchoulerBack to their roots at Paris couture for Proenza Schouler
An all American moment at Proenza Schouler, who riffed on the crafts of crafts of their homeland in a bold and often brilliant collection on a drizzling Monday in Paris.
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![]( "Surrealism with a feminist twist chez Dior")
Surrealism with a feminist twist chez DiorSurrealism with a feminist twist chez Dior
Ever since she arrived as artistic director of Christian Dior, Maria Grazia Chiuri has mounted a feminist fashion campaign. This season for couture she gave it a feminist twist.
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![]( "Schiaparelli’s posh pagan surrealism")
Schiaparelli’s posh pagan surrealismSchiaparelli’s posh pagan surrealism
What a difference a smart stylist can make. Schiaparelli changed stylists this season, bringing in noted Brit Katie Grand and the result was Bertrand Guyon’s best collection for the Paris...
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![]( "Azzedine Alaïa: Je Suis Couturier")
Azzedine Alaïa: Je Suis CouturierAzzedine Alaïa: Je Suis Couturier
Talk about an instant retrospective. Not even two months after his sudden death, the house of Azzedine Alaïa has staged a memorable exhibition of some of his most brilliant works.
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![]( "Chez Céline: Hedi Slimane is Back; and so is Sidney Toledano")
Chez Céline: Hedi Slimane is Back; and so is Sidney ToledanoChez Céline: Hedi Slimane is Back; and so is Sidney Toledano
He’s back! In a really major surprise, LVMH announced Sunday the return to Paris of Hedi Slimane to take over the creative direction of Céline, in what amounts to a brilliant counter stroke.
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![]( "Performance art fashion at Kenzo")
Performance art fashion at KenzoPerformance art fashion at Kenzo
As much a work of performance art as a fashion show, the latest event by Kenzo operated like a meditation on family life and cinematic melodrama as much as an expression of the designers'...
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![]( "At Robert Clergerie moroccan sneakers rule, ok?")
At Robert Clergerie moroccan sneakers rule, ok?At Robert Clergerie moroccan sneakers rule, ok?
The shoe of the season was not on any runway in Western Europe this month, but could rather be found sitting on a stand on rue St Honoré. Its author: David Tourniaire-Beauciel, creative...
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![]( "Dunhill: brand coherency is the key")
Dunhill: brand coherency is the keyDunhill: brand coherency is the key
A Paris catwalk debut for Dunhill, the venerable English brand, best known for its hardware rather than its soft fashion.
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![]( "Paul Smith: it’s about living together")
Paul Smith: it’s about living togetherPaul Smith: it’s about living together
On a weekend that women marched in force throughout America, protesting, in part, what they perceived to be the sexism of the Trump administration, it was instructive to attend a runway...
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![]( "Brioni on the mend in a Paris mansion")
Brioni on the mend in a Paris mansionBrioni on the mend in a Paris mansion
One house that now appears on the mend after a considerable amount of recent turbulence is Brioni. The Italian tailor unveiled a new creative director and a surprising new method of...
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![]( "Balmain, after a heroic menswear show, reveals plans to do Couture")
Balmain, after a heroic menswear show, reveals plans to do CoutureBalmain, after a heroic menswear show, reveals plans to do Couture
There are few more ambitious designers than Olivier Rousteing, who, fresh after staging a heroic menswear collection for Balmain, revealed plans to present his first ideas in couture next...
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![]( "Dior Homme: top of the class in tailoring")
Dior Homme: top of the class in tailoringDior Homme: top of the class in tailoring
Just when one thought one would drown in a heavy sea of Athleisure, along comes Kris Van Assche and reminds us what a great collection of modern tailoring can look like.
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![]( "Thom Browne: very kinky and very Thom")
Thom Browne: very kinky and very ThomThom Browne: very kinky and very Thom
“It’s always based about my basics; the gray flannel suit or the sack suit, though this season with a little difference,” chuckled Thom Browne after his sylvan forest fantasy show on...
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![]( "Vetements and the Art, and Necessity, of Appropriation")
Vetements and the Art, and Necessity, of AppropriationVetements and the Art, and Necessity, of Appropriation
“Everything is appropriation, isn’t it? And I think it is a good thing that we are honest about that. We live in a world that is full of influences, that exist to be copied,” argued Demna...
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![]( "Diesel does capsule collection with AC Milan")
Diesel does capsule collection with AC MilanDiesel does capsule collection with AC Milan
It’s a right of passage for any proper fashion brand, especially if it is Italian. At some point the designer has to dress a serious professional football team; and the latest link up is...
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![]( "London crosses the channel to link arms with Tranoï")
London crosses the channel to link arms with TranoïLondon crosses the channel to link arms with Tranoï
The British Fashion Council took a novel approach this week to the Paris menswear season, partnering with the French capital’s most avant-garde trade show Tranoï and feting the...
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![]( "Maison Margiela: Galliano still searching for release")
Maison Margiela: Galliano still searching for releaseMaison Margiela: Galliano still searching for release
Now that’s what we call a fully deconstructed debut. Marking John Galliano’s first full menswear collection for Maison Margiela since the British couturier arrived at the house in 2014.
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![]( "A very British farewell at France's Louis Vuitton")
A very British farewell at France's Louis VuittonA very British farewell at France's Louis Vuitton
Fashion never loves a finale, though no one could not say that Thursday’s departure from Louis Vuitton by Kim Jones after six years helming its menswear was not done with a great deal of...
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![]( "Helmut Lang re-ignited in menswear with Mark Howard Thomas")
Helmut Lang re-ignited in menswear with Mark Howard ThomasHelmut Lang re-ignited in menswear with Mark Howard Thomas
Helmut Lang menswear is back, with soul and a refreshed yet respectful vision, courtesy of new menswear designer Mark Howard Thomas who showed his debut ideas in Paris on Thursday.
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![]( "Sonia Rykiel’s Manifesto")
Sonia Rykiel’s ManifestoSonia Rykiel’s Manifesto
Talk about being true to your roots. Sonia Rykiel, the ultimate St Germain brand, which celebrates its 50th anniversary this year, recalled the year of its founding in a novel fete this...
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![]( "Isabel Marant, over a seven-hour lamb, launches menswear")
Isabel Marant, over a seven-hour lamb, launches menswearIsabel Marant, over a seven-hour lamb, launches menswear
Isabel Marant has launched a menswear collection and a good look at the clothes tells you one of three things: the clothes have all the practical rocker cool and bohemian gypsy groove...